Posted on | May 20, 2015 | No Comments
I love the Hobbit, and The Lord of the Rings, when I think of epic movies, they are the first things that come to my mind! The atmosphere, the tension, the drama, Billy Boyd summed it up perfectly for me with his amazing song The Last Goodbye which played out the credits of the final Hobbit movie. My most favourite part is where Gandalf whispers to his crystal topped staff and it blooms alive with light, I wanted to re create that look and add in an LED light to ICE Resin to make a perfect cosplay replica for comic conventions, or a small child at Halloween! I already have orders for more of these!
I hope you enjoy my project and leave me a comment to let me know what you think
Thanks for visiting
Iced Enamels™: Shattered Opal
Large Crystal Mold
LED and Battery pack
Self Clamping Tweezers
Staff Base: Altered cardboard tube
Soldering iron, solder, flux.
1: Make a mold from a suitably sized crystal. Mine is Quartz and almost 2inch wide and almost 3inch tall.
2: Solder your battery pack to your LED light, as shown in the video instructions.
3: Mix a large amount of ICE Resin to the manufacturers specifications.
4: Add a half teaspoon of Shattered Opal to the resin and mix in slowly, be careful not to create bubbles.
5: Pour your mixture into the mold slowly so as not to trap air bubbles in the crevices.
6: Submerge the LED into your resin clamping in place with self clamping tweezers and tape.
7: Leave to set for 8 to 12 hours.
8: Carefully remove from mold making sure not to snap the metal prongs of the LED.
9: Attach to staff, turn on and enjoy!
Posted on | May 19, 2015 | 1 Comment
In honor of “Breakfast At Tiffany’s” watch the ICE Prince John Creighton Petersen create a shrine from an upcycled book. Take your love of bookmaking and combine it with ICE Resin® products to create your own fabulous masterpiece!
Thanks for watching!
And for inspiration from our Creative Team, check out our blog, the ICE Queen E-Zine, here:
Follow ICE Resin Susan Lenart Kazmer on social media!
And follow ICE Resin Creator, Susan Lenart Kazmer, here:
Posted on | May 15, 2015 | No Comments
Talented Thespa McLaughlin was part of our Creative Team in 2012 and we were lucky enough to run across this “lost” video.
Watch Thespa share how she preserves dried 4 leaf clovers with ICE Resin!
Discover more about Thespa on her Vintiquities blog.
Posted on | May 13, 2015 | 2 Comments
- Bottle caps
- Black acrylic paint
- Flat pliers
- Metal or rubber block to pound on
- A sizzix, cuttlebug, artisan xplorer or other embossing type machine (optional)
- Iced enamels in: Garnet, Pewter, Tarnished Bronze, German Silver, Chartreuse, Ivory
- Iced Enamel medium
- Small brush
- Embossing heat gun
- ICE Resin and appropriate mixing tools
- Sponge brush
- Metal punch
- Chain, wire, and other findings
- Jewelry tools
- Garbage bags for easy clean up
Posted on | May 12, 2015 | No Comments
An Ice Resin not so quick tip today by Susan M Walls. Nature? Nurture? I really couldn’t decide so I did several projects to help you find your “natural” creative inspiration. Some salt, a branch, and some dried flowers and there you have it! Hope you enjoy it!
Posted on | May 6, 2015 | 2 Comments
Spring is in the air, and I was inspired by a post that I had seen awhile ago on Pinterest by artist Andrea Ockey Parr and had simply pinned it to my board and kind of forgotten about it until we were given the theme of “nature” for our projects and for some reason this just jumped into my head! I’d always wanted to experiment with this particular technique and thought that this would be the perfect time to try it out!
Of course you could go totally crazy and create an entire bouquet of flowers and totally change the shapes of the petals, but I thought for this tutorial that I’m sharing with you that I’d go for the more simple daisy shape.
1. Create “petals” from 20 gauge wire. I found it easiest to bend the wire to create the end of the petal and then bend the wire back to create the base. Flatten the wire (if desired) only where the petal shape has been created and then bend the wire around the base three times to finish each petal. By flattening the wire, you’ll be creating a flat surface to make adhesion of the tissue paper easier.
2. On white tissue paper, stamp background pattern stamp with StazOn Vibrant Violet.
3. Next add another stamped image (I used mostly text images) with StazOn Royal Purple.
4. Using your petals as a guide, trim tissue paper down to size – you don’t have to cut them exact, you’ll make them all pretty later.
5. With an InkBlusher, highlight areas of the tissue paper with StazOn Fuchsia Pink.
6. Mix a SMALL amount of ICE Resin® following instructions. And by small I mean the smallest quantity you can measure and mix using the graduated measuring cup because when working with tissue paper, a small amount of resin goes a very long way! I found it works best to let the resin set up for about ½ and hour to allow it to thicken a bit so that the tissue paper doesn’t slide every where when working.
7. Put on a pair of rubber gloves – trust me LOL I don’t generally wear gloves when working with resin but believe me, you’ll thank me because this can get a little messy!
8. Place tissue onto your non-stick craft mat and apply a small amount of resin. Use the side of the stir stick to spread the resin across the tissue paper and watch it turn translucent.
9. Apply resin around the rim of the petal, then place the tissue paper onto the petal and gently massage into place with pressure on the metal. The tissue paper will slip and slide a bit FYI. I applied the tissue paper to the backside of the petals because I wanted a clean look, but you could always apply the tissue to the front and wrap the tissue around the metal if this is easier for you.
10. Repeat with all the flower petals and allow the resin to set.
11. After the resin has set, trim the excess tissue paper from each petal using the wire edge as your cutting guide.
12. Mix another small batch of resin and fill in the petal to be flush with the edges. Allow to cure completely.
13. To create the middle of the flower, create a circle instead of a petal shape from the wire and apply plain tissue paper across the top for the base. Sprinkle Amethyst German Glass onto the tissue paper with resin and then sprinkle with glitter. I found using this great little stand with alligator clips from Harbor Freight was perfect! Once this has set, tap off excess German Glass and glitter.
14. To assemble into a flower, I used the center of the flower as the ‘middle’ and had all of petal’s tails bunched around the tail of the flower center. Get the petals into place, and then use painters tape 9or similar) to hold the bunch of wire together while your wrap around all of the tails using 24 gauge wire, starting from the petals and working your way down the bunch of wire to create the stem.
You could also use this same process to create leaves for your flowers, add some crazy wrapped wire pieces to jump up through and between the petals, oh my, the possibilities are endless I tell you!
IMAGINE Crafts featuring Tsukineko StazOn inks (Vibrant Violet, Royal Purple, Fuchsia Pink), InkBlushers, Craft Mat
Prima Marketing rubber stamps
Other Supplies 20 and 24 gauge wire, wire tools, hammer and hammering block (to flatten wire if desired), pink glitter (or similar), white tissue paper, gloves, cutting mat, craft tool, painters tape
Posted on | May 5, 2015 | No Comments
You will need these jewelry tools as Clare Horner from the ICE Resin Design Team show you how to alter an Art Mechanique silhouette:
Metal Cutters aka Snips or Jewelry Saw, Fine Grit Sand Paper or File, Clamp
Thanks for watching!
Please leave a comment and let us know your thoughts on this video and technique.
Discover the project this form was altered for HERE.
Posted on | May 3, 2015 | No Comments
The Artisan Jewelry Times provides insights into a cross section of jewelry types each month, giving readers the chance to expand their jewelry making range.
If you wish to subscribe: www.artisanjewelrytimes.com
Posted on | May 1, 2015 | No Comments
As a trend researcher, I find mixed metals and use of vibrant gemstone cabochons or faux gemstones set in cool metals like silver to be the trends in the upcoming season. Combining both these trends, I have created a design which can be made even by a beginner in jewelry making with no metalsmithing or gem setting experience whatsoever.
- ICE Resin® (resin – Part A & B, mixing cup, stick)
- Art Mechanique Hobnail Shield bezel
- Flat artistic wire – gold color
- Acrylic metallic paints in copper sulphate blue, green, orange, pink
- Art Mechanique German Glass Glitter – Gold
- 8mm Green glass beads – 6
- Maroon glass cylinders – 2
- 6mm Blue crystal rondrells – 2
- 3mm Bronze crystals – 4
- gold tone eyepins – 10
- Brass link chain – 16”
- Gold tone Jump rings -7
- Lobster clasp – 1
- Round Nose pliers or step pliers
- Flat nose or chain nose pliers
- wire cutters
- Paint brush
- Black sharpie marker
- Cut 5” of artistic wire and using step pliers or bail pliers curve the wire such that it make partitions in the bezel when set in it
- Place the wire shape in the bezel and trace its outline with a sharpie
- Apply dabs of acrylic paint inside the lines in the bezel to create a marbled look. Color the sides of the bezel too. Sprinkle some Gold German Glass Glitter for shine. Let dry
- Mix equal quantities of Part A & B in a cup as per instructions
- Apply a thin layer of resin on one end of the wire and glue it in the bezel following the trace. Hold for a while.
- Pour resin gently on top to cover the entire bezel right till the edge of the wire, just sealing it in. Cover with a dust cover and set to dry and cure for 24 -72 hours
- Loop the following beads individually with simple loop:
- Green bead (6 times), bronze-maroon-bronze combo (twice), blue crystals (twice)
- By opening and closing the loops on the beads connect them in the following pattern – one green bead followed by 2” of chain, another green bead, maroon set, green bead, 1” of chain, blue crystal and then a jump ring. Repeat to make the other side.
- Cut the remaining chain into two and add the clasp in the center with jump rings.
- Connect the other ends of the chain to the beads via jump rings.
- Connect the bezel to the green beads with jump rings.
What vibrant color pairings do you favor?
Posted on | April 29, 2015 | No Comments
I’ve been fortunate to live around the world and see many beautiful places. My family loves gardens, and over the years we’ve taken many photos of plants and flowers – far more than we could ever hang on our walls. This project is a great way to display photos otherwise “collecting dust” on your computer, and remember great times spent in nature.
In recent wanderings through craft stores, I came across wonderful, inexpensive laser-cut wood pieces, which I immediately wanted to fill with ICE Resin®. I was inspired by both frame shapes and decorative shapes. With the simple addition of ribbon, you can hang the finished project in a window, and enjoy the stained glass-like effect created by transparent- & translucent-colored ICE Resin® in the openings of the wood. You could also use more opaque coloration, and hang the ornaments anywhere you’d like a little extra color or decorative “pop.” Imagine how great they would look as tree ornaments!
Image(s) printed on paper
Iced EnamelsTM Medium
Iced EnamelsTM in assorted colors; for the square picture frame I used Garnet Reqlique, Raspberry Relique, Pewter Relique, and Copper Glitz Relique
Acrylic paint in assorted complementary colors
Clear packing tape
Ceramic tile or other heat-proof surface
Unused dry kitchen sponge
Non-stick work surface such as a garbage bag or silicone craft sheet
For these written instructions, I’m focusing on the frame shapes. If you want to use the decorative shapes, just eliminate the steps for preparing and applying the photo image.
To begin, choose the photo you would like to put in the frame. Resize the image to fit the frame, and print it on an inkjet printer on plain white copier paper. Cut the image to fit the opening of the frame, leaving an additional ¼-inch border around the image; the border will be crucial for affixing the image to the wood frame.
Prepare a small batch of ICE Resin® according to the package instructions. If you are only preparing one image, you will not need much ICE Resin® at this stage. Cut a portion of the kitchen sponge. Place the cut image on your non-stick work surface, and apply a very thin layer of ICE Resin® to the image using the sponge. Flip the image over, and apply another thin layer of ICE Resin® to the other side of the image. Leave it to cure overnight.
Choose Iced EnamelsTM to complement your chosen image. You can use a single color of Iced EnamelsTM or a mix. For my square frame with the pink flower image, I used a mix of Garnet Relique, Raspberry Relique, Pewter Relique and the Relique Glitz Powder in Copper. I poured roughly equal parts of the Garnet Relique & Raspberry Relique into a mixing cup, and added smaller amounts of the Pewter Relique and the Copper Relique Glitz. Stir the Iced EnamelsTM in the cup to mix well; set aside.
Using a paintbrush, paint the wood with a layer of Iced EnamelsTM Medium. Because the frames are rather large, and Iced EnamelsTM Medium dries fairly quickly, I worked on half the frame at a time. After painting half the frame, sprinkle your Iced EnamelsTM mixture on the prepared wood, gently shake off the excess, and return it to the mixing cup. Continue by painting the Iced EnamelsTM Medium on the remainder of the frame and coating with the Iced EnamelsTM. If any wood spots remain bare, simply apply more Iced EnamelsTM Medium to that spot and sprinkle with the Iced EnamelsTM.
Place the wood frame on the ceramic tile and apply heat with the heat gun until the Iced EnamelsTM melt. If you’ve worked with Iced EnamelsTM before, this may take more time than you’re used to, simply due to the larger size of the frame and the fact that it’s wood and doesn’t conduct heat as quickly as metal.
When the frame has cooled, carefully paint the back of the frame with acrylic paint in a color to complement the image you selected. Apply two coats of paint for thorough, even coverage. Let the paint dry completely.
Apply packing tape to the painted back of the frame, and burnish thoroughly, sealing the tape very well around all the openings in the frame. This will keep the resin from leaking out in the next phase of the project.
Set the frame aside. The next step is to prepare the colored ICE Resin® that will fill the openings in the wood frame, creating a “stained glass” effect.
After mixing the ICE Resin®, divide it among separate mixing cups; you will need a separate cup for each color you plan to use. I usually make one ounce of ICE Resin® and divide it between four or five separate cups.
Using the non-pointed end of a bamboo skewer, squeeze a small amount of acrylic paint onto the end of the skewer. “Small” means approximately half the size of a green pea; you don’t need much paint. Stir the paint into one of the cups of ICE Resin® and mix well. Wipe the end of the skewer with a paper towel, and repeat with the remaining colors.
Place your tape-backed wood onto the non-stick work surface with the Iced EnamelsTM side facing up. Using the pointy end of the bamboo skewer, carefully drop/apply each color of the ICE Resin® to the openings in the frame, as desired. Take care not to overfill. If resin spills over the edge of any opening onto the Iced EnamelsTM surface, simply wipe it away quickly with a paper towel.
As you fill, go back and check the openings to ensure that they have sufficient colored resin in them; the wood may absorb a bit of the ICE Resin®, leaving small openings with no visible color, so you may need to apply a little more to some of the openings.
When all the colored ICE Resin® has been applied as desired, let the piece cure overnight.
Carefully remove the packing tape from the frame.
With the frame face down, place the printed image face down on the back of the frame. You should be looking at the back of the frame – the acrylic paint side – and the back of the image. Using small pieces of packing tape, affix the image to the frame in several spots.
Prepare another small batch of ICE Resin®. Using a piece of sponge, apply the ICE Resin® thinly to the border of the prepared image and the frame, to permanently adhere the image to the frame and create a neat back. If you need to do any additional detailed touch-ups on the back, use a disposable paintbrush. Set aside to cure overnight.
Thread a ribbon through one of the holes in the wood. If there is not an opening remaining, select an appropriate location, and use scissors or a punch to cut a small opening in one of the smaller resin sections. Tie a knot and a decorative bow, and hang your framed picture in a window to enjoy the beauty of your photo as the light passes through it and the “stained glass” frame.
Extra Technique Tip: Acrylic paint makes the ICE Resin® slightly more viscous – or thick – which enables you to create additional effects, like using two separate colors in a single opening in the wood. For example, in some of the larger openings I used two colors by simply applying the first color starting from one end of the opening, and carefully pulling it with the skewer toward the center of the opening. Then, I did the same from the opposite end of the opening with a second color, bringing them together in the middle. I let the natural flow of the resin “do its thing” to blend the two where they met, an effective way to use two colors in single space while keeping them distinct and unmuddled.
For more about my work, go to:
My blog: http://gemfabulous.com/