What will you make?

Posted on | July 21, 2016 | No Comments

Summer is definitely here and it’s the perfect time to beat the heat by staying inside the cool air conditioning and getting out your craft supplies. It’s also a great time to look through your library of books for a little dose of inspiration. When the summertime heat get to us we like grab a tall glass of iced tea, turn on the fan and pull Susan’s Resin Alchemy book from the shelves and flip through it. There you will find pages of inspiration from Susan, as well as learn her many techniques for using ICE Resin, color and inclusions such as mica and glass glitter.


Tell us, what plans have you made this summer? What craft ideas are you ready to explore?

Vintage Dennison Label Inspired – Collage Cover and Tag Book With ICE Resin® Bezel

Posted on | July 19, 2016 | No Comments

Family Tag Book with ICE Resin® Bezel and Ephemera Collage

Family Tag Book with ICE Resin® Bezel and Ephemera Collage

Vintage, Retro, Collectible, and Antique are a few words that have the ability to take us back to another place and time, or bring to mind a memory of a loved one and can also be the inspiration we use as a catalyst in our art.

In this design team project, our theme was Fresh Vintage. I thought of many possibilities, ideas and inspirations that I could draw from. With the word vintage, I headed to my studio and began pulling open the drawers and looking through my vintage finds and then there it was-a 1950’s box of Dennison Red rimmed labels {Love them!} I was taken back to the time of hand written labels on file folders, typewriters and secretaries who handled the daily office business.

Vintage Inspiration

Vintage Inspiration

With the inspiration in hand, I began to gather ICED Enamels™, a rectangle bezel, the new ICE Resin® ephemera paper packet and a few other supplies.

To create a label inspired bezel, I needed to create a clean lined approach since I was filling the majority of the bezel with the Relique powder in garnet. I chose to cut out a small rectangle from a thin gauge metal sheet. Sanding the metal, then applying the ICED Enamels™ medium and ICED Enamels™ Relique powder (ivory) prepared the surface to be stamped. Once stamped, it was adhered in the bezel with a touch of glossy accents. Filling with ICE Resin® was the last step for the bezel.

With the bezel completed, I gathered my paper supplies- a premade tag book, a vintage index card, resined paper, the ICE Resin® Ephemera paper pack and a few distress inks.

Inking the card in a random pattern and spritzing it with water created a perfect work piece for my collage. Layering is the next part, which is where the inspiration becomes visible. Using resined paper, snippets from the new ephemera packet and a few of the Dennison labels, the cover came together. Adding the bezel with ribbon and the metal button completed the cover.

I chose the word Family as the theme for this project. Just as with the words from above vintage, retro, antique, and collectible -the word family brings to mind many places, many memories, and many loved ones and is my source of inspiration for our daily living.



ICE Resin® Milan Bezel

ICE Resin® Milan Bezel


  • ICE Resin®
  • ICE Resin®, disposable cup and stirrer
  • ICE Resin® Milan Bezel, rectangle
  • ICED Enamels™ Medium, disposable brush
  • ICED Enamels™ Relique Powder- garnet and ivory
  • ICE Resin® Studio Sheet.
  • Thin gauge metal sheet
  • Tin snips or die cut machine with rectangle die
  • Heat/craft gun
  • StazOn Ink in Jet Black
  • Micron Pen or Sharpie Fine Marker
  • Small word stamp
  • One premade tag book or spiral bound notebook
  • One index card
  • Tim Holtz® Distress Ink – walnut and stain antique linen
  • Small Spritz bottle of water
  • Vintage paper
  • ICE Resin® ephemera images by Ranger Glossy Accents™ collage
  • Ranger Collage Glue Stick
  • Scissors
  • Two vintage Dennison labels
  • Optional seam binding or ribbon of choice
  • One metal button

Directions for Vintage Inspired ICE Resin® project

To Create the ICE Resin® Bezel

  1. Using ICED Enamels™ medium and disposable brush, brush the inside of the bezel with at with the medium.
Apply ICED Enamels Medium

Apply ICED Enamels Medium

  1. Using ICED Enamels™ Relique powder in garnet, sprinkle a generous coat of powder to the inside of the bezel.

Brushing Off Excess Relique Powder

* Sift powder to remove the metallic bits as this creates a less metallic finish.

Sift Relique Powder

Sift Relique Powder

  1. Heat with embossing/craft gun until powder is smooth and melted. Set aside to cool.
With embossing gun, heat powder until smooth

With embossing gun, heat powder until smooth

To Create the Inset

  1. Using tin snips or a die cut machine cut a small rectangle out of the thin gauge metal sheet.
  1. Using a small hand Sand block such as a nail buffer, sand the top side of the metal.
Sand small rectangle

Sand small rectangle

*This gives it a little bit of “tooth@ so that the ICED Enamels™ medium will adhere to the rectangle.

  1. Using the disposable brush, brush medium onto the rectangle. Sprinkle the ivory relique powder. Then follow same steps as in step 1 of the bezel. Set aside to cool.Once cool, it is now ready to be stamped.
ICED Enamel Relique Powder

Apply ICED Enamel Relique Powder

  1. Ink a small word stamp with StazOn ink. Press firmly on to small rectangle. Lift off.

*If any repairs need to be done to the inked image, use a micron black pen or a sharpie fine marker.

  1. To adhere the small rectangle into the bezel before the ICE Resin® has been poured, apply a small amount of Ranger Glossy Accents™ to the back of the rectangle and press firmly in the bezel.

Now it’s time to pour the ICE Resin® into the bezel.

  1. Place the metal bezel along with a vintage piece of paper onto the ICE Resin® Studio Sheet.
  1. Mix equal amounts of part A and part B in the disposable cup.
  1. Using the plastic stir gently fold the two parts stirring for two minutes.
  1. Set aside for five minutes to allow for some of the bubbles to dissipate.
  1. Now pour the ICE Resin® into the bezel.

*To create the ICE Resin® piece of paper use a small piece of a sponge and coat both front and back with the ICE Resin®. Let both the bezel and paper dry 8 to 12 hours.

To Create the Worn Look for the Index Card

  1. Using both distress inks, sponge the card with varying amounts of color and placement.
  1. Spritz with water and then with the heat gun set ink. Repeat this technique until the desired look is achieved.
  1. Tear the ICE Resin paper to desired size leaving some of the index card visible.
  1. Adhere each layer of paper with Rangers collage glue stick.
Layering Resin paper and Ephemera

Layering Resin paper and Ephemera

  1. With the ICE Resin® ephemera packet choose several of the background images including one larger image such as the script paper.
  1. Place papers accordingly to create the desired look of the collage art.

*Use real Dennison vintage labels to add more dimension to the collage.

  1. Using ribbon, thread through the bezel wrapping around the book and secure with the bow.
Adding the Ribbon

Adding the Ribbon

  1. Using Ranger Glossy Accents™ adhere metal button.
  1. To create placement for the streamers of the bow use a small bit of Ranger Glossy Accents™and manipulate the streamers as desired
Vintage Inspired Family Tag Book

Vintage Inspired Family Tag Book

Chantal lives in Rowlett, Texas and is married to Scott. They have three children, 3 dogs and 5 sweet little hens. Her work has been published in Somerset Studio, Somerset Home, Sew Somerset, Apronology, Haute Handbags, Belle Armoire and Green Craft.   She is currently on the ICE Resin® 2016 Design Team. For teaching engagements, you may contact her directly at chantal515@verizon.net. Visit her blog at chantaljohnson.blogspot.com or become her friend on Facebook to see her latest inspirations and see the joy in daily living.

How Stirring Slowly Leads to Zero Bubbles ICE Resin®

Posted on | July 14, 2016 | No Comments

Boo!  Did I scare you, daydreamers?  No?  Well my video might!  It’s A. Marie here, and I know something else that scares many of you… BUBBLES!!!!  No, come back! Please don’t run away!  There’s no bubbles here.  We’re working with ICE Resin®, and that means as long we follow the instructions, we’re in a bubble free zone.

Often, the biggest culprit to the bubble is in how we stir up our ICE.  So, in this video, I’m going to take it nice and slow and really walk you through how to stir your ICE Resin® so that you don’t get any bubbles in your pour.  I’m going clear in the video, but if you’d like to tint it, just add the color after the resin has set up for a few minutes and then let it set up for a few minutes more.

There are other factors that can contribute to possibly having bubbles.  Especially when working with certain molds and found objects.  But this simple step, that every resin pour starts with, is where most people who get bubbles messes up at.  If you have any bubble questions after watching this, please leave them in the comments.  ICE Resin® is a self-leveling, jewelers grade resin with a long drying time.  What that means for you is, crystal clear, bubble free gorgeousness!

Please enjoy the video, and then go work some of your own magic with ICE Resin®.  Until next time, may your muse shine brightly!

A.  Marie is a mixed media, jewelry artist, and poet who lives in Texas and spends most of her time chasing daydreams in her studio and trying to spread love and healing with her ever-the-vociferous muse guiding her.  Learn more about her below.

Website:  From the Breath of Daydreams

Blog:  fromthebreathofdaydreams.blogspot.com

Facebook: facebook.com/AMarieFromtheBreathofDaydreams

Twitter:  twitter.com/FTBODD

Instagram:  Instagram.com/fromthebreathofdaydreams

Pinterest: pinterest.com/fromthebreathof

How to Create a Fresh Vintage Inspired Hand Fan!

Posted on | July 12, 2016 | No Comments


Hello beautiful daydreamers! It’s A. Marie reporting in for our “Fresh Vintage” design team challenge. I have always been interested in hand fans. They differ greatly depending upon the culture, the era, and the usage. Whether signaling maneuvers to armies, silently flirting with an unspoken, but widely learned language for the time period, or just staying cool, hand fans have captured the hearts and imaginations of people all over the world. They certainly captured mine at a very young age. In fact, I once purchased several inexpensive but beautifully painted Japanese folding paper fans in a variety of sizes, and used them to decorate the wall behind my bed. Originally, I was going to create that type of fan for you. But then, I was asked if I wanted to go to a certain faire that is going on at this time, which got my head spinning into costume land.

I decided it would be a lot of fun to create a vintage themed hand fan in faded out colors, with bedraggled and stained sari ribbon, sequins, and of coarse ICE Resin®. I wanted it to look as if someone might have dug it out of an old costume trunk. I thought it could be really cool to make something like this for a birthday party, or maybe a bachelorette party, or perhaps if you’re into creating your own characters for cosplay, this might be a really fun accessory to add. Plus, it’ll keep you cool if the event you’re at is on the warm side! I went with a very over-the-top feminine, frilly, party kind of vibe, but you could take the same idea and head in any direction that appeals to you. Whether toning it down into something more basic to take to the many sports games your kids participate in, or coming up with an elegant design to hang on your wall. It’s easy. Fun. And it definitely makes a statement! Let’s get started.


Supplies Needed:
-ICE Resin®
-ICE Resin® Mixing Cups & Stir Sticks
-ICE Resin® Studio Sheets
-ICE Resin® Brushes
-ICE Resin® Tints- Lolite
-Tim Holtz® Adirondack® Alcohol Inks -Eggplant, Pink Sherbet, and Cool Pearl
-Tim Holtz® Distress Paint- Dusty Concord, Picked Raspberry, and Seedless Preserves
-Ranger Sticky Embossing Powder
-ICE Resin® Foil Sheets
-ICE Resin® Ephemera Image Assortment
-ICE Resin® Molding Putty
-ICE Resin® Milan bezels Antique Bronze, small square
-Tim Holtz® Adirondack
-Ranger Glossy Accents™
-Ranger Surfaces Sticky-Back Canvas
-Aleene’s® Clear Gel Tacky Glue™
-Martha Stewart Crafts® Royal Butterfly Punch
-Loctite® Epoxy Heavy Duty
-ART-C ®Mixed Media Products Bronze Wax
-watermark pen
-off-white sari ribbon
-plastic baggies
-generic sequins, floral shape, mixed sizes and colors
-generic female doll, adult
-masking tape
-round brass wire 16g and 20g
-1 brass jump ring
-1 brass eye-hook

Tools needed:
-Heat Gun
-Butane Torch
-Basic Jewelry tools (ie pliers, cutters, etc)
-Hammer and hard steel surface to hammer on
-a canister or something to shape the wire for your fan
-a mason jar to hold the handle in while the fan dries
-some cardboard boxes or something similar to hold the mold upright while the resin dries
-drill and bit


First we need to make the fan’s handle.  Remove the head, arms, and clothes from the doll you’ve chosen.  This is an inexpensive generic plastic doll I picked up used for a few cents.  It has the perfect shape for a vintage form, so it can be used to make a mold.  Wrap it up with masking tape, so as to create a sturdy shape to place your putty around.  I added packing tape on top of the masking tape for a smoother texture.   When creating molds, you don’t have to worry if what you’re molding looks like what you want the finished piece to look like.  It just needs to have the correct shape, and a similar texture.  In this case, I wanted the body to look old, and not very uniform.  The tape came in handy for that.  If you want yours perfectly smooth, and don’t want to do a lot of sanding, then you’d want seal the tape until you have a smooth surface.  I didn’t take a photograph of myself wrapping it, because I needed all my hands to do the wrapping.


Next, you want to cover the form in molding putty, leaving an opening at the top to pour your resin into.  Because this molding putty cures very quickly, I worked in sections.  I don’t care if the outside is uneven, it’s the inside that matters.  Make sure not to leave any really thin areas, or gaps.


Anytime I’m making a casting with a mold I’ve never used before, I always do what I call a “throw away” cast with a much cheaper, fast setting resin.  I especially do this if I’m making a mold like this one, because I want to know if I’ve made a mistake before I make my real cast.  I cut down one side of the mold to the doll’s hip, to remove the original test casting.  I also accidentally ripped it on the opposite side because I got startled while I was removing the resin and jerked the mold too hard.    That’s ok though.  I used some of this jewelers finger tape to secure the mold in place while pouring the ICE Resin® into it.  I had placed the mold standing vertical inside a couple of cardboard boxes that I cut a hole out of so that it would fit.    One I was satisfied that the mold wasn’t going to move, I poured my ICE Resin® mixture into it.  I had tinted the resin with the paint colors above to get the same color of purple that’s prominent in the ephemera papers.

I also used the leftover ICE Resin® to fill the two bezels.


This is what the pieced looked like once cured.  As you can see, I did some sanding on the doll form, because I wasn’t paying close attention when I wrapped it, and I accidentally pulled the tape too tight causing the mold to pinch in an area.  So you’ll definitely want to pay attention when you do it! lol  See how the shape is there, but there’s also areas where you can still see the outline of where the tape was?  This is exactly how I wanted it for the handle.  It’s not pristine nor smooth.  It’s definitely beat up, old, and has the gnarled look that some vintage pieces naturally have.  Which is absolutely perfect for the fan I created.


Use a dried up wet-wipe to smear the three alcohol ink colors all along the surface of the doll form.  You want it to look mottled and messy, so just dribble some ink on and then dab and rub it in.


Once the ink has dried, you can go over it real fast with your heat gun, and then take some of the bronze wax and just smear it all over the form.  Go as heavy or light as you want.  I personally like a lot of the purple shining up beneath the golden color.  I buffed the first layer of wax before it was completely dry.  This caused it to smear off a little and dull down, leaving a very aged and patinaed look.  I then came back with a little more and created some highlights.  Once it dried completely, I buffed the entire piece by hand.


While waiting for the wax to dry in the previous step, I grabbed some 16 gauge round brass wire, and a glass container I keep ribbon in and roughly formed the shape of my fan by wrapping the ribbon around the canister.  I used a rawhide mallet  to work harden the wire around the container so that I’d not break it.

This is an important step for decision making.  If you’ve never done anything like this before, you might be thinking to yourself, “I can never shape wire into a fan!  Especially not a perfectly symmetrical one!”  You know what I say to that?  “Don’t worry! Just give it your best shot.”  Unless you’re trying to make a very perfect, very elegant fan, being a little off isn’t going to hurt you.  Maybe you don’t have a rawhide, nylon, or rubber mallet.  Guess what!  That’s ok!  Just wrap your wire around something as best you can, and go grab a boot or a tennis shoe and then bang on it lightly.  Some of the most beautiful and creative items in the world are made in areas where they do not have a lot of tools and products.  It’s ok to look around and see what you have that might work in the place of something.  For example, if you don’t have any brass wire, but you have a metal coat hanger…. use it.


You’re going to want to have the two ends of the wire come down and meet in the center so that you can stick them into the handle.  If you’re not comfortable with wire wrapping, you can just take some masking tape and wrap it around the two pieces to hold them together like I did.  It’s not going to show because it’s going to be adhered into the handle.


I did go ahead and wrap some 20 gauge wire around the piece for extra support, but it doesn’t really matter because it’s not going to show in my fan.  You can choose to wrap it and have it show as a decorative accent.   Since it’s not showing, I wasn’t nit picky on getting my wire wrapped snug up against each other, but it is tightly bound around the tape.


Now that the fan frame has been shaped, it needs to be wrapped.  I decided to go with some sticky back canvas I had laying around because I happened to remember a really cool technique I could do with it that would be perfect for the ephemera papers.  All you have to do is lay the wire atop the paper side of the canvas, and then draw a line about half an inch outside the perimeter of the wire.  This is going to be your guide for cutting.  You’re basically just wanting to create a shape to wrap the wire with.  There might be an easier way to do this.  I’m not a fan maker, so I don’t know.  But this way works well for what I had planned.


After cutting the canvas out along the line I drew, I then drew another line about a quarter of an inch to the inside of the wire.  This is so you can take an exacto, or some kind of blade and lightly score the paper backing. So that while wrapping the canvas around the wire, you can keep the interior sticky section covered.  I even divided that outer ring into more sections, so that I could pull smaller sections of paper off at a time.


In this image, you can see what I’m talking about in cutting the canvas.  Because the frame is a somewhat round shape, it was important that I make nips along the section being folded over so that I can keep the bend smooth.  I did end up using the tacky glue in addition to the sticky on the canvas during this section.  I don’t know if that would be needed if you had new canvas. Mine is many years old.  Actually, I probably got mine when it first came out, then I threw it in the drawer and have only used it a few times since.  The important thing here is making sure that the canvas is wrapped firmly around the wire.  Once finished, set it aside while prepping for the next step.


These ephemera papers work so well in a punch!  Plus, I think the background designs on the flip side of the images make for beautiful geometric butterflies!  Because they’re a repetitive pattern, and the butterfly wings on most punches are symmetrical, you can just flip the punch upside down and line the thorax up with the center of one of the shapes and then get these gorgeous, perfect butterflies.  Of course, if you don’t want their wings to match, you don’t have to do that.  In fact, if you don’t have a punch you can use the same technique I’m going to show you a few steps from now to make a paper stencil to cut these butterflies out as well. All you need for that technique is a pair of scissors.

This fan isn’t fancy.  It’s fun.  So if you want to rip the images up by hand, that’s fine too!  Just pick out ones you like and tear, cut, or punch them out in any manner you want.  You  just need to have a lot of small pieces, and enough of them to cover whatever size fan you have created.  Because you’re going to use them to decorate the underside of the fan.


This is my pile of images.  I separated them into sections because when I started adding them to the fan, I wanted to  layer the image up.  You can get really inventive and playful at this part, color blocking, or even designing some type of image.  I went pretty random.  I just wanted butterflies to be floating among the imagery.


This is why we kept that paper covering the sticky center of the canvas.  Because you want it to be as sticky as possible.  Remove the paper backing, and then start layering your papers.  THIS IS IMPORTANT SO I’M PUTTING IT IN CAPS!!!  PUT THE IMAGE YOU WANT TO SEE FACE DOWN!!!  Yes, you read that correctly.  You want to place the side you wish to see in the finished product, against the sticky so that you’re not seeing  it now.  If you look between the two images above, you’ll see the piles of butterflies facing up with the designs I’m wanting to use. But in the photo directly above, you can’t see any of them. It looks like a big mess.  This is because that’s the back side.

So what you want to remember while laying your papers on is, the papers you lay down first are the papers that are going to show up on top.  The papers you lay down last will be partially hidden behind those that went down first.  Also, any text that you put down will show up mirror imaged.  I forgot about that and had my perfectly imperfect moment for this piece. lol  It’s ok.  It still looks great and it will give me a grin when I look at the fan.  But I’m letting you know just in case you don’t want that to happen on yours.  You want to use your finger or the back of a spoon and really burnish the images onto the sticky back.  It’s very important that they’re adhered down well.  Don’t worry about the overlapping parts that aren’t stuck.  They don’t matter.  You want things to be overlapping.  But you definitely want to make sure that the pieces that do touch the sticky are stuck well.  Phew! What a tongue twister!


Now for the fun part!  Grab a water spritzer, and give those papers a bath!  Let the water soak into them well, and then take a damp baby wipe, or just your finger is really the best thing to use and begin rubbing the paper in small circles.  You’re wanting to gently rub the paper off of the canvas.  If you look closely at the above image, you’ll notice there’s no paper in the center, but there is all around it.  The ink from the ephemera paper is stuck on the adhesive giving the look of dyed canvas.  It’s like you’ve made your own print.


This is what the fan looks like once all of the paper has been removed, and the canvas had been dried.  See all those mirror imaged words?  Mmmhmm.  It totally happened.  But look at all those gorgeous butterflies!  They stand out so bold and beautifully among the clutter of images.  I think a fan would be really amazing made out of nothing but punched butterflies!


Flip the fan over to the blank canvas side, and mix up some watered down versions of the three paint colors I listed.  You can paint this how you want, but I sprayed the canvas with water so as to create a “wet in wet” pastel look.  The paint is going to seep through to the other side because we didn’t gesso it, so just flip it over once you swipe on a coat and then dab it off of the images on the other side.  It will end up giving them a beautifully aged stain that you might expect to see on the back side of a vintage fan.  I then splattered the different colors onto the canvas, adding to the stained and puddled effect.    You’re going to want to carry that paint around the edge on the other side too.  You can even paint on the other side.  it’s all up to you.


This is what the image side looks like  as I added some color to the center of it in the beginning. See how there’s just a hint of pink, but it doesn’t hide any of the imagery?  That’s why you want to thin the paint out, basically creating a wash of color instead of opaque color.


Next I took some off-white sari ribbon, wet it, and tossed it into three different snack sized plastic baggies.  (The red is for something else.)  I added a little alcohol, a little water, and several drops of the alcohol ink in the colors I mentioned in the supply list and squished the ribbon around.  If you look at my Hint of Tints Poppy necklace tutorial, you’ll see how I did this.  It’s a really easy way to dye ribbons any color you want.  The reason I used alcohol ink for these is if the fan happens to get wet, the ink won’t run from the water.  Never know when a storm or shower might happen.  Set these aside to dry while doing the next part, or use the heat gun.


Remember a few steps above where I said I’d show you a way to cut butterflies if you didn’t have a punch?  You can do it like this.  Now this is for a larger stencil, but all you’d have to do is shrink it down to the size you want and then save the center butterfly parts.  For the stencil though, you’re going to want to either draw, or find a butterfly shape online that you like and that will fit inside the fan.  If you found one online, print it out and then either cut it in half, or fold it in half. If you’re drawing it by hand, just skip to this next step.  Fold a sheet of typing paper in half and then either place the printed butterfly against the folded center and trace the body.  Or if drawing, you can just draw half of a butterfly body onto the paper.  Once you have the shape you like, cut it out.  Follow the lines closely, because you’re wanting that negative space where the butterfly was to use as a guide for the next step.


Use a little bit of masking tape to hold the stencil you created where you want it.  If you can’t really see where to put it, place the butterfly image where you’d like a butterfly, then place the paper on top of the cut out butterfly  where it would go to form a full sheet of paper.  Grab an embossing pen, the sticky embossing powder, and a sheet of foil.


Scribble words inside the butterfly, add the embossing powder, zap it with the heat gun, and then lay the foil onto the melted powder with the color side up, and rub.  You can only do small sections at a time because the ink soaks into the canvas really fast.  The words aren’t going to be legible, so if you just want to scribble, scribble away.


I punched one of the smaller butterflies and tried to scribble their shape in too, but I didn’t seem to have as much luck getting it to work with them.  I’m not really sure why it worked very well in some areas and almost not at all in others.  You’ll have to play around and find that happy place.  But since I was going for old and tattered, not being perfect added to the proper feeling for the piece.  Add as little or as much foil as you’d like.


Next I grabbed the three different colors of sari ribbon, and layered them one on top of each other, centered above the wire.I doubled up some matching thread and began stitching them onto the wire frame.  The best needle to use for this is an embroidery needle, because the point is dulled and rounded so it pushes the fibers aside instead of cutting them.  However, you’ll need a thimble, or something to protect your thumb with if you go that route, because it takes a little bit of pressure to get through all those layers.  In this particular case, I think it’s ok to go ahead and use a sharp sewing needle.  I switched to one after the first few pieces of string for ease.  You’re going to want to do this in sections verses having a really long length of string.  It will help stop it from tangling so easy.  Stitch the ribbon all the way around.  Though my lengths fit around the fan fine, don’t worry if yours doesn’t.  You can use multiple pieces and it will be just fine, because of how we’ll but cutting the ribbon once it’s all adhered.


I then pulled the two top layers of ribbon up against one another, and did a running stitch going all the way around the fan, just to get them to stand up, and hide the thread that adheres the ribbon to the fan.  Once that was finished and knotted off, I went around each ribbon and cut  slits into it.


It ends up looking like this once all the cuts are made.  Old, ragged, and frilly!  What you can do now is just run your fingers through it and kind of rough it up, giving it a yummy bedraggled look.  Remember me saying earlier not to worry if your fan isn’t quite perfectly symmetrical?  A little fluff adds a multitude of sins in something like this.

I don’t have a photo of it, but I took some of that bronze wax and lightly kissed areas of the fluff with the smallest touches of gold.  It’s not all that noticeable, but it does tie the handle back up into the fan, and gives it a little extra sparkle when the light hits it just right.


Take some sequins and stick them to the foiled side of the fan with the Glossy Accents™.  You can stitch if you want to, but for the look I was going for with this one, sticking them is just fine.  Use as few or as many as you want.  My inspiration was like a themed birthday party or baby shower for a young noble woman.  So it’s both over-the-top, understated, and innocent all at the same time.


Figure out what drill bit goes with the size of the base of your fan, and drill a hole into the top of your doll form handle, then clean it up.  An easy way to make sure you get the depth correct the first time, is to hold the stem of the fan that you want hidden inside the handle against the drill bit.  Place a little piece of tape on the drill bit where the stem ends and then when you drill the hole, only go down to where the tape is.  You also want to take a very small bit, and make a pilot hole centered on the bottom of the feet.  This second hole is to give a start for the small eye-hook that will be screwed into the feet later by hand.


There’s two choices for this part.  I didn’t give myself enough time to use ICE Resin®, but if you plan ahead for drying, you certainly can.  I ended up using the quick-set epoxy adhesive in the supply list.  It’s a 1 to 1 mix as well, so I just mixed it up quickly, then scooped a significant amount into the hole, and then pressed and twisted the fan base into the hole, cleaning up any adhesive that oozed out as I went.  Make sure to line the fan up exactly how you want it, because once it’s stuck….it’s stuck.  I show you how to hold it while it dries in the next step.


While I had the quick-set mixed, I also adhered the two square bezels back to back, from earlier.  If I had planned ahead, I would have definitely used ICE on them.


A mason jar works great for holding the fan handle vertical while the quick-set dries.  Just wad some paper towels up and shim it in place so that it doesn’t move.  You can use an old cloth, or whatever you have on hand for the shim too.  The shop rag is just fine, as long as it’s not going to stain your handle.  Set the jar aside for everything to dry and begin assembling the final pieces.


Next, I gathered the remaining sari ribbon, figured out what length I wanted the tassel dangle, and just knotted them all up together messily, tying small knots throughout their length for added texture.  I also went into each individual strand and gently tugged and pulled at them, so as to add to that aged and moth ridden appearance.  I created a very loose and rustic wrap at the top with the 20 gauge brass wire.  I did hammer the hoop on the end, just to make it a little more special.  But, I didn’t use a mandrel or anything to shape it.  I just sort of bent the wire and let it lay how it wanted to.    For me, when creating something like this, it’s the small choices that really add to the overall effect.  All of the little imperfections in technique work great, and add character to this particular design.  Which makes it ideal for someone really wanting to try to do something like this, who maybe hasn’t done anything like this before.


I screwed the eyehook into the starter hole at the bottom of the feet, making sure it was nice and tightly secure.


Then I opened the eye-hook and added the bezels directly to it.  I used a brass jump ring to attach the tassel to the bezels.


For a final step, I added some of the scrap sari ribbon to the neck, sort of like a scarf.  And then I tore and tugged at it until I had it just the way I wanted.

Here’s a few close-up images of the final piece.  I’ve used it to fan myself, and it works so well.  It fits really nice in the hand, and has a wonderful balance.  I can see something like this used for so many situations.  It’d certainly make a statement!


This image shows where I went back in with the bronze wax like I spoke of earlier.  That darker, deep brownish color is what I had rubbed off before it dried, then the part I allowed to dry before buffing all but glows as if gilded!  See all the imperfections from the tape I had wrapped around the plastic doll to create the mold with?  I tried to hammer it to add more indentations once it was dry, but I waited too long.  If you want to make one, I think it would look even better if beat with a hammer while still a little malleable.  All that texture really makes me a happy camper!


The different colors achieved on these ragged ribbons by just using those three inks is breathtaking.  There’s such delicious mottling going on, that just looking at them tells a story.  Did the party the young noble woman was at get rained on?  Maybe that explains why there’s spots up on the fan too.  Or did she have her precious fan packed away in her trunk, and the carriage she road in lost a wheel, causing the trunk to topple and everything inside it get waterlogged?  True, the brass is a bit shiny to have gone through all of that.  But it won’t stay that way for long.  The air will give it a lovely natural patina and tarnish and those fibers closest to it will become slightly smudged.


In contrast, the glassy plum of the ICE Resin® filled bezel is like a precious polished stone that sets this fan apart from the fans of others.  Perhaps her beau had the handle made at one of the most renowned glass blowers in the country, and then had an infamous jeweler set the bezels with stones he found while traveling abroad.


The special fabric he had made specifically for her in Paris tells a secret story known only to the two of them.  And since it’s on the back side of the fan, she gets little glimpses of it as she cools herself beneath the sweltering sun.  Colorful reminders of his love and the story of their journey.


The party in the front is in celebration of the upcoming birth of their first child.  The sequins are like fireworks erupting upon the backdrop, a reminder of where the new life was conceived.  The messily scribbled butterfly, words from the play where they first laid eyes upon each other.

Whether a story is real or not, having one to go along with a creation adds so much depth to it.  When I look at this fan, I can see the cakes and pastries, the ruffled skirts, and the giant bows that graced the party it attended.  I can feel the love and laughter that swept through the celebration upon the cheerful notes of a private band.  There’s absolutely nothing technically perfect about this fan, and yet it is all those imperfections combining together that make the finished product so beautifully unique and absolutely perfect.

I hope that it inspires you to combine a little whimsy into a project designed for more practical purposes, and to not only tiptoe out of your comfort zone. But perhaps to dive head first into the unknown and see where it takes you.  If you do end up making a fan, please share it with us, because I would love to see it.

Until next time, may your muse shine brightly!

A.  Marie is a mixed media, jewelry artist, and poet who lives in Texas and spends most of her time chasing daydreams in her studio and trying to spread love and healing with her ever-the-vociferous muse guiding her.  Learn more about her below.

Website:  From the Breath of Daydreams

Blog:  fromthebreathofdaydreams.blogspot.com

Facebook: facebook.com/AMarieFromtheBreathofDaydreams

Twitter:  twitter.com/FTBODD

Instagram:  Instagram.com/fromthebreathofdaydreams

Pinterest: pinterest.com/fromthebreathof



Embrace Each Moment

Posted on | July 8, 2016 | No Comments

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Embrace Each Moment

We have a collection of vintage typewriters; one in particular sits in my studio ready with old school paper, to type a word or phrase. It’s always a surprise when I go into the studio and someone has typed a name, a thought or even a mantra. My daughter typed ‘I found a book’… another says ‘this really works’ and there are still more sayings. I save them all. When I am in my studio or as I am just passing by, I type. I love to hear the sound of the keys as they strike the paper. Some of my recent thoughts have been ‘Bless my small moments’, ‘inspire my moments’ ‘I’m glad you found a book’ and my most recent thought is “Embrace each moment.’ This is where my inspiration came for this art piece and then became the center bezel filled with ICE Resin®. Adding vintage timepieces that I have been collecting continued my theme of moments. The background is a mixture of Archival inks, ICED Enamels™ and Ranger Texture Paste that give depth and life to all the components.   Using a small piece of unfinished wood as the base, this becomes a perfect saying set on an easel and placed where it can be a daily reminder to capture each moment –for each moment turns into hours which turns into days and soon it become a life – and we want that life to be worth embracing! Take a few moments, incorporate a few techniques, add a few collectibles (old or new) and when finished, this will be time well spent.



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The Key Ingredient

ICE Resin® Studio Sheets

ICE Resin®, disposable cup and stirrer

ICED Enamels™ Medium, disposable brush

ICED Enamels™ Relique Powder- pewter, copper, and turquoise

Small spoon to be used with Relique powder

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A Few More Supplies

Ranger Archival Inks ™– Leaf Green, Viridian

Ranger Glossy Accents™

Ranger Texture Paste

Palette spreader/knife

Craft/Embossing Gun

Dylusions Stencil – Alphabet Border

ICE Resin® Milan Bezel, circle medium

ICE Resin®

Vintage or new timepieces including watch faces and watch hands

Brass wire – 18 gauge

Metal heart charm

Small block sander

Flush cutters

Round nose pliers





  1. Using the small hand sander, sand all edges smooth on unfinished piece of wood.


  1. With Archival ink in leaf green, begin to swipe the ink on the wood and along the edges. Repeat with Viridian. It is not necessary to cover entire surface.
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Using archival ink, ink randomly on the wood

  1. With disposable brush, brush a generous coat of ICED Enamels™ Medium onto top of wood piece.


  1. Using small spoon, begin to sprinkle all three colors in a random covering on to the surface of the wood. *Allow some of the ink from step 2 to show through.
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Close up of ICE Enamel Relique Powders

  1. Tap off excess. Using heat gun and with a continuous motion, move around the wood piece and heat the powder until it become smooth. Set aside to cool.


  1. Once cool- place the stencil onto wood piece. With the palette knife, “scoop” out a generous amount and then spread onto the stencil, covering thoroughly. Lift stencil straight up and off the wood piece. *With either a baby wipe or a sponge and water, clean stencil immediately so texture paste will not dry on stencil.
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Using palette knife, apply texture paste

To create bezel


  1. Create a sentiment on paper either by using computer or perhaps a vintage typewriter. Measure paper and bezel. Cut to fit. **If using a computer, adjusting font size may be necessary. **


  1. Place cut circle in Bezel. *As I used vintage paper, I placed another piece of cardstock in the bezel first and also sealed my paper*
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Close up of ICE Resin® bezel


  1. To fill the prepared bezel- mix equal amounts of part A and B of ICE Resin®. Stir gently for 2 minutes and let rest for 5 minutes. Using disposable stirrer, drip the Resin into the bezel until filled. Let dry for 6-10 hours.


To create the heart dangle


  1. Using the small sander, sand the watch hands to reveal the gold beneath the black finish. With Glossy Accents, adhere the two hands together. Let Dry.
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Sand embellishments if desired

  1. Once dry, cut a small piece of brass wire. Thread the wire through the heart charm. Bring the wires together, leaving one end longer and wire rap smaller end near the heart. Thread longer ends thorough the hole of the watch hands and continue wire wrapping to secure.
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Close up of heart dangle

Now put it all together….


Using Ranger Glossy Accents™, apply a generous amount to the completed bezel. Next, adhere the vintage timepieces and the watch hands in the same manner. Let dry completely.


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Take time to create a daily reminder to embrace each moment



Chantal lives in Rowlett, Texas and is married to Scott. They have three children, 3 dogs and 5 sweet little hens. Her work has been published in Somerset Studio, Somerset Home, Sew Somerset, Apronology, Haute Handbags, Belle Armoire and Green Craft.   She is currently on the ICE Resin® 2016 Design Team. For teaching engagements, you may contact her directly at chantal515@verizon.net. Visit her blog at chantaljohnson.blogspot.com or become her friend on Facebook to see her latest inspirations and see the joy in daily living.





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